It looks good, but it may get you refused entry from hot springs. Image by Steven Erixon, Unsplash.
Whether it’s the obscenely punctual public transport systems, the super-efficient customer service, the health system that really works, or the ubiquitous convenience stores, Japan is rightfully famous for taking convenience to a whole other level.
Unfortunately, nowhere is perfect. Even Japan can be inconvenient at times.
In this article I’m going to introduce four more, along with advice on how to deal with these inconveniences to make your trip to Japan go much more smoothly.
1. Got a tattoo? You may have to cover up.
Traditionally in Japanese society tattoos are associated with organised crime. Obviously as a foreign tourist no-one is going to mistake you for a yakuza boss, but tattoos still have such negative connotations that you may be refused entry from some places if your tattoos are visible.
Advice
The no-tattoo rule is most pertinent when it comes to hot springs, where everyone is naked.
If it’s a small tattoo, stick a bandaid on it, and this will probably be no problem.
If it’s a large tattoo and there’s no realistic way for you to cover it, find a hot spring that allows tattoos. Recently, more and more hot springs are relaxing their no-tattoo rules. Check the website before you go.
Some hot springs in tourist areas allow customers to wear swimwear (again, check before you go), so if your swimwear covers your tattoo this is another possible solution.
Another option is to go to a hot spring hotel. Some have a private hot spring bath in every room, although these tend to be very expensive. A cheaper alternative is to look for a hot spring hotel which offers a 貸し切り風呂(かしきりぶろ, kashikiri-buro)“reservation bath” , also known as a 家族風呂(かぞくぶろ, kazoku-buro)“family bath”. This is a room with a hot spring bath that can be booked privately by the hour.
Besides hot springs, some high-end restaurants and bars may not accept customers with visible tattoos. Wear long sleeves if necessary.
2. The techno toilet
It’s your first day in Japan and you’re using a toilet that looks like something from a science fiction movie. It has arms which are covered in control buttons, each one marked with Japanese kanji characters. Where’s the flush?
Advice
流 = flush, 大流 = big flush, 小流 = small flush
This type of toilet is called a Washlet. Besides multiple flush settings, they can include a host of other features, including:
音姫 = “sound princess” — a flushing sound (not actual flushing) which you can play if you don’t want anyone to hear you
音量 = volume
音停止 = sound off
おしり = “butt” — a water jet for your backside
ビデ = “bidet” — a softer water jet for your front parts
乾燥 = dryer — use this after the water jet
ノズル調節 = nozzle settings to adjust the position of the water jet
前 = front
後 = back
水勢 = water strength
弱 = weak
強 = strong
温水 = warm water
便座 = toilet seat heater
脱臭 = deodoriser
高 = high setting
You would be advised not to press anything unless you know what it does. However, if you do get curious and end up spraying water all over the floor, the following two functions will come in handy:
切 = off
止 = stop
This video has a very clear step-by-step guide:
3. The not-so-techno toilet
You may see the following signs on Japanese toilet door cubicles:
洋式
和式
洋式(ようしき, yō-shiki)means “Western style”. These are often Washletswith multiple features (see above).
和式(わしき, wa-shiki)means “traditional Japanese style”. It’s basically a hole in the floor. You squat down (facing the bit that sticks up), pull your trousers down, and flush as usual. You will get used to it pretty quickly.
These traditional Japanese style toilets are often found in train stations and parks, and don’t always come with toilet paper.
Some public toilets also do not provide driers or towels.
Advice
Many people carry small packs of tissues in their handbag or briefcase in case toilet paper is not provided. You can buy these from convenience stores, 100-yen shops, pharmacies, and supermarkets. They are often handed out on the street by shop staff advertising their company’s products and services.
It’s also very common to carry small face-cloth-sized towels to use for drying one’s hands in case drying facilities are not provided. You can buy these very cheaply from 100-yen shops and most convenience stores.
4. Keigo — the “respect language” that sometimes baffles even native speakers
Learning a bit of the local language before you go travelling is a great way to make your trip run more smoothly and to endear yourself to the local people.
Just don’t expect Japanese shop and restaurant staff to use the kind of language you learnt in your textbook.
This is because Japanese verbs conjugate by politeness level. For example:
1. To eat (rough form) 食う (くう, kuu)
2. To eat (plain/dictionary form) 食べる (たべる, taberu)
3. To eat (polite form) 食べます (たべます, tabemasu)
4. To eat/drink (honorific form) 召し上がります (めしあがります, meshiagarimasu)
Forms (2) and (3) are by far the most common in daily use. You’ll learn these in Japanese lessons/textbooks.
However, if a shop assistant is talking to you they will use form (4) because you are Mr/Ms Honourable Customer, and they are showing you respect.
This honorific form is part of 敬語(けいご, keigo) “respect language”.
The rules of keigo are intricate, numerous and confusing. In recent years the Japanese government has realised that keigo is a serious and potentially life-threatening obstacle for expats living in Japan. You can read all about the solution in Miyuki Aida’s Medium article on やさしい日本語 (やさしいにほんご, yasashii nihongo) “simple/kind Japanese”.
Advice
Despite having complex rules which sometimes confuse even native speakers, some keigo expressions are part of everyday parlance.
You are likely to encounter the following honorific expressions on your trip to Japan:
1)召し上がります (めしあがります, meshiagarimasu)= to eat / to drink
If you go into a coffee shop, the staff will probably ask:
「ここで召し上がりますか?」(ここでめしあがりますか? koko de meshiagarimasu ka?)
= “Are you eating/drinking here?”
You can reply either :「ここで」(koko de) “here”, or「持ち帰り」(もちかえり, mochi-kaeri )“to go”.
(Do not use 召し上がります (めしあがります, meshiagarimasu)to refer to yourself! The staff are using it to honour you. You should not honour yourself as you will sound very vain.)
2) いらっしゃいます (irrashaimasu) = to be / to go / to come
If you ask for help from train station staff, they might ask where you are going:
「どこへいらっしゃいますか?」(doko e irrashaimasu ka?)
To reply, just say the name of where you want to go.
This word is also the root of irrashaimase, a word which shop staff will shout to you when you enter. It’s their way of welcoming you, and you’re not expected to reply. A polite smile and/or nod is fine.
3)「ご覧」(ごらん, goran) = to look
In souvenir shops you often hear staff shouting:
「どうぞご覧下さい!」(どうぞごらんください!, dōzo goran kudasai!) = “please look around!”
They are merely acknowledging your presence, and you are not expected to reply.
If you found these tips useful, check out my previous article: Four Ways in which Japan is Really Inconvenient for Foreign Travellers
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